Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Muted nose, whiff of fish oil on the first bottle, ample apricot fruit. Rich, broad, opulent and concentrated, yet lacks some vigour and zest. This has weight rather than elegance, despite the solid rather than racy acidity on the finish; it plods along. Quite good length. 15.5

Simon Field: A floral nose, almost confected, certainly atypical in this family. Then an exotic palate with notes of pineapple, perhaps more residual sugar than most. Odd, dusty notes and an unsatisfactory finish. 12