Nicolas Belfrage: Impressively fine-grained colour, and a fine, polished nose. This is modern Sangiovese at its best: everything is in place - from the firm, ripe tannins and the deep, finely stated fruit, to the understated but influential oak. This will last well, though it’s already a fine bottle. 17.5

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Assertive, oaky nose, though the fruit is rather obscured. Quite rich, juicy, upfront fruit, with ripe tannins. The palate is less assertive than the nose but has a forceful finish with an attractive duo of fruit and acidity. Quite good length. 16.5

Alison Buchanan: Rich black-ruby. Slightly grubby nose, with swimming-pool and volatile polish notes. The nose is not exciting. It could be a dirty glass! The palate is very nice. There’s just a slight grubbiness apparent. Very modern style controlled and intense - yet there is some elegance and freshness. Pity about the nose. It may be the glass, but the second bottle wasn’t all that much better - the palate was good but the nose was grubby again. 16