Nicolas Belfrage: Very deep colour, suspiciously so. Untypical nose. A modern style, little to do with Sangiovese, quite a lot of toasty barrique. It would please the international market for which it is made. 15

Stephen Brook: Opaque red. Rich, ripe nose, quite chocolaty. Rich and full-bodied, with sumptuous fruit. Firm tannins. This seems to have a lot of Cabernet. Quite dense, and needs time, but admirably concentrated. Very good length. 18

Alison Buchanan: Very deeply coloured, with a dark-ruby rim. Extraordinarily sweet pastry-shop nose, with a pain au raisin character. Caramel, raisins and vanilla. Rather seductive, sweet and highly extracted palate supported by firm tannins. The acidity adds a freshness that is vital. The sweet, spicy, dark chocolate and caramel notes all indicate a modern style. A big wine that needs time but is balanced. 17