Nicolas Belfrage: Mid-plus brick-red centre with a broad tawny rim. Rather burnt and sweaty on the nose. Stewed fruit. Better on the palate, but lacks a core. Some spicy tannin rising on to the finish, but otherwise quite short. The fruit is drying out. Flollow. 16.5

Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Reserved. A touch herbaceous but not unpleasant. Rich, lush, rounded and concentrated. Very tannic - extracted and rather dour, lacking finesse. A bruiser. Medium length. 14

Alison Buchanan: Black ruby-velvet, very richly textured. Sweet, very modern nose of coffee, leather, tobacco and spice, layered with vanilla. Supple, seductive fruit - a Parkerised job. Slightly overextracted. Ultimately balanced, supple and long. The freshness saves it from leaden Parkerisation. 17