Nicolas Belfrage: A Porty nose, with cherry liqueur. Firm acid and penetrating fruit on the palate, but also a certain manque de finesse that gives a good drinkability for purists but is unlikely to appeal to internationalists. 16

Stephen Brook: Deep red. Flefty, oaky nose. Rich, spicy, assertive, tight, and very concentrated, with hefty tannins. A bit of a bruiser, but it certainly doesn’t lack plummy fruit. Good acidity on the finish. This needs time. Good length. 17

Alison Buchanan: Deep black-shot garnet - more familiar territory. Blood pudding and spice, and autum nal-fruit compote. A much more elegant style than the Castello Vichiomaggio Chianti Classico Riserva La Prima. It’s difficult to judge whether this really is refined and elegant after such a soupy wine beforehand. I retasted: refined fruit, but already a rather dry, austere tannic structure. A dry mid-length finish. 12