Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Warm, doughy, full, enticing; lots of sweet grape and sugared grapefruit. Some sulphur flatness too, though. Soft and rounded; no real fruit concentration or verve, however. 10.5

Simon Larkin : Appearance as previous. Gently perfumed quality to limey citrus aromas. A mineral aspect, too. This suggests a cooler style, with minerality more to the fore. Apple, slate, stone and green lime, very pure and well delineated. Balanced, lively and harmonious, with a very natural aspect to the finish. Scores highly with regard to balance, though it’s remarkably austere in its current form. 16

Alexander Scott: More discreet than the St Antony Nierstein Pettental, with less flam boyant ripeness, but we’re still in the realms of very ripe Riesling from a top-class and (especially in 2003 ) sun -drenched site. Not as silkily natural on the palate as the St Antony and more austere on the finish. No great individuality, but still very good wine. 15