Michel Bettane: Straw-gold. Too evolved on the nose, clearly oxidised. Great complexity, with excellent [low ] dosage. Too much premature evolution, due to random oxidation, for a score to be given. A shame. NS

Simon Larkin : Heading towards egg-yolk yellow. The aromas suggest sweet vanilla, white flower and creamy white chocolate. Zesty lemon quality, chalky in nature, this shows real power and weight. A fine example - the mousse shows well, adding textural definition. A sense of volume is unmistakable. There is a tremendous sense of direction too - this is going somewhere and is well worth tucking aside for more than a decade. 16.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow -gold, steady bead. Traditional style on the nose with aged characters, hints of barley sugar and toffee apple. A very traditional style with plenty of age to it, quite classy for its age, with good complexity and individual character, and an elegant, dry finish. 15