Michel Bettane: Greeny-gold colour. Clean but rather closed nose, subtle but not very complex; light, elegant and airy but not much breeding. 14.5

Simon Larkin : Good, golden appearance. Subdued aromas, little distinguishable. The palate is lean, not distinguished. The mousse does little to add to the sense of harmony. Mineral in vein, but some characters are too abrupt and aggressive for me. Time may tell, but at present this seems edgy and disjointed, despite its obvious qualities. 15

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold, slow mousse, pinprick bubbles. A touch of spiciness, possible oak fermentation. Good, ripe, delicately honeyed fruit richness, with a floral, lavender-like character. Delicate mousse, nicely textured, full-flavoured and dry on the finish. Well-crafted Champagne with no hard edges, but the youthful, austere fruit needs time. 16.5