Essi Avellan: Deep golden color, with onion-skin tinge. Smooth, complex, evolved nose of dried apricots, wax, candied fruit, and viennoiserie. Less fruit on the palate, which is wide and deep and thick but not very lively. Some signs of oxidation. Long, drying finish. 16

Simon Field: Complex nose, with flowers, slate, orchard fruit, and spice all evidenced. The palate is finely structured, with a mineral backdrop, very pure acidity and real persistence. Powerful red-fruit notes at the heart of the performance are starting to show their worth, nearly a decade later, with all the supporting actors strutting confidently across the stage. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Voluminous bready-biscuity-whisky aromas and an almost-puckering finish. Needs a good 18 months’ additional post-disgorgement aging. 17.5