Michel Bettane: Super golden-green straw colour. Complex and refined. Delicate, deliciously pure and authentically terroir. Sleek, complex and long - what more is there to say? A complete Champagne in every sense. 18

Simon Larkin : Similar appearance to [the Pierre Peters], Gentle bead. The aromas seem mute and yet show some heavy hazelnut-cream qualities. The palate shows some sense of evolution, with toasty, bready qualities coming to the fore and more vibrant citrus behind. The mousse is ample and textural, though the finish seems clipped. 14

Anthony Rose: Pale colour, almost no bubbles to show for itself in the glass, rather flat-looking. Little on the nose. Quite a soft mousse, pleasant but anodyne fruit, clean and dry, but lacking a little life and dimension compared to some of the other wines in the flight. Ends disappointingly short. 13