Michel Bettane: Classic straw colour; very tiny bubbles. Complex nose of lemon and citrus with just a touch of caramel, but otherwise not a trace of sugar. Terrifically brut, chalky character, with a shortish finish - to my mind, a perfect aperitif Champagne, 15

Simon Larkin : A deep hue, with a golden appearance and a strong bead. Aromas suggestive of hazelnut cream. Some breadth, withatoasty edge to the fruit. Not as well knit as expected. Modest expression and length to match. Slightly lacking. 12

Anthony Rose: Golden yellow, persistent bead, fine bubbles. Some dry and toasty fruit on the nose, possibly some reserve wine adding character and toastiness, with an almost baked-apple fruitiness on the mid-palate. A slightly aggressive mousse with a hard edge, but a nice dry finish of medium length. 12.5