Michel Bettane: Classic straw colour. Rich, developed nose, nice autolysis but with what I call lactic, baby-vomit aromas. Heavy on dosage and rather vulgar. 9.5

Simon Larkin : Depth of colour, golden in hue. Fine bead. Toasty aromas - relatively sophisticated and understated in character. Rounded, with good weight of fruit. Pleasing mousse. Quite a bold style that does not necessarily carry through on the palate. Modest finish - very much upfront. Minerally touch tails off. 13.5

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-gold; small, steady bead. Clean, fresh, attractive nose, delicately floral, withatouch of honey. Nice, dry, mouth-filling mousse, some appley characters, and crisp, refreshing acidity. Good length of flavour, with nicely balanced fruit. 14