Michel Bettane: Pale straw colour. Strong autolysis; very slightly sulphury nose. Rather blousy overall, with flabby biscuit-dough aromas, but length and dosage are good. 13

Simon Larkin : Deep lemon-gold appearance; modest bead. Bready, rich autolytic notes discernible on the nose. The palate, by contrast, seems simplistic, lacking expression and intensity. Well-rounded, with some toasty nuances exhibiting considerable influence. Pleasing texture, and moderately complex fruit, though there is an absence of a clean dart of acidity to the finish. Good persistence but little clarity. 12

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow, slow-moving bubbles. A curious nose, with some dried fruits, and something slightly coarse, sourdough and cumin-like, even mousey. Quite high acidity on the palate, giving a tart, appley feel to the wine, which I find strangely coarse and unappetising. 9