Michel Bettane: Classic straw colour; vulgar, tart, very oxidised nose. Musty palate, over-obvious dosage - in short, all the signs of a badly made, terribly ordinary wine. Even the cork was defective. 10

Simon Larkin : Good clarity, pale-lemon appearance. Muffled citrussy nuances. The palate is lacking in precise pure fruit. There is a toasty edge but little that signals purity and race. The mousse is sound, lending some luxuriance, but the finish clips short. Not sure if this is entirely clean. 7

Anthony Rose: Deepish yellow-gold. Slight sourdough, wet-straw, bread character on the nose. Slightly mousey, rather plain fruit on the palate. One-dimensional, with clean acidity and balance, but overall a tad lacking in expression, with a phenolic, bitter finish. 9