Simon Field: Rather anonymous in terms of both the visual and olfactory analysis. The palate is rather clumsy, though it hasn’t quite lost the weight it might have been used to throwing around, a la Jake La Motta. The resulting wine is slightly tired and dysfunctional. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Light, clear and fully mature. A different style of aroma, with some lingering floral notes and a whiff of tar, almost evoking Piedmont. Perhaps not classic, but I like this. There's a lovely solid fruit base here, with lots of sweet plum and damson. That, though, is the main pleasure: it's not hugely grippy or masterful. Satisfying and enjoyable rather than sublime. 16

Richard Mayson: Mid/deep centre, thin browning centre. Graceful, chocolaty nose. Open, attractive, some elegance. Soft, sweet creamy fruit - milk chocolate. Concentration with peppery tannins rising in the mouth. Fine and well balanced. Drink now and over the next 15-20 years. 16.5