Stephen Brook: Muted nose, slight cardboardy tone, perhaps from recent bottling. Sweet but bright and fresh; not hugely concentrated but straightforward and attractive; limey aftertaste, pleasant but lacks grip. Medium length. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale water-gold. Dull, empty nose: overfiltered? Or coarse fruit handling? Very sweet and overt, but lacks all delicacy and refinement. 9

Jancis Robinson: A certain veil over the nose, which seems quite heavy. Dry finish and a lack of spark on the middle. A bit of a John Major [grey former British prime minister] of a wine. Still quite astringent. Old-fashioned winemaking again. Noticeable sulphur. Drink 2007-14. 14