Nicolas Belfrage: On a knife-edge between volatility and inspiration; comes down slightly on the wrong side, but still has plenty of character, roses and tar. Classic style, shows the firmer character of 1996 as distinct from 1997. A pleasure to drink now for appassionati, but will reward years of keeping. 18

Simon Larkin : Deeper in appearance and significantly tighter aromatically than the 1997, a sense of deep fruit yet to be expressed. The palate reveals substantially greater volume too, dense, bold, with a more assertive structure. The tannins are grippy yet fine and admirably matched by real breadth and distinction. An abundant bitter cherry and damson-like fruit are currently held in check. Withatrue arc of flavour, this is pure-natured, powerful and persistent. A fine example that will demand patience. All the necessary components are present to suggest 15-20 years potential. 17