Nicolas Belfrage: Slightly more evolved colour than the 1996, deepish. Stewed fruit and tar on the nose. No particular oak aroma. Concentrated, rich fruit with vegetable edge. Good length. Serious stuff, drinking now for eight to ten years. 16.5

Simon Larkin : A vivid hue, with succulent, deep cherry aromatics, pure and soft-scented - open and already expressive. The palate reveals good structure with ample, layered, ripe fruit; smooth lighter red fruits, elegance and finesse. Texturally there is a silky note and a pleasing sense of vibrant acidity on the finish. Good persistence, with a less assertive tannic finish than anticipated. Already showing some appeal and accessibility, balanced and harmonious. Should reward cellaring over the medium term. 14.5