Nicolas Belfrage: Colour almost suspiciously deep, especially for a 1996. Charming berry-cherry fruit on the nose, but is it Nebbiolo? If so, a change has taken place in the DNA. Very well made international-style wine, far removed from the traditional style, though still recognisably Piemontese. Better structure than the 1997, and will last longer. 16

Simon Larkin : Subdued aromatics. The palate shows a deep, vivid core of vibrant fruit - cherry, damson, and plum. The fruit is well expressed with good purity, though a slightly stewy quality pervading. Though the tannins are fine, they are assertive. Needs time to knit fully. 14.5