Anthony Rose: (disgorged 2015) Comprising 20 percent each of the five villages, the current release offers a super-toasty nose, combining a citrusy freshness with exotic mango and honeyed richness, a hint of white chocolate and grilled almond; evolved and complex, supervinous mousse, powerfully full-flavored, and just starting to age gracefully yet with pineapple-fresh acidity, turning as much into a wine with bubbles as a Champagne. 20 years young.