Andrew Jefford: Pale red. Warm, rounded, and harmonious: The hallmark fruits seem, already, aromatically mellowed and englobed. Ripe, light, full, graceful: captivating cherry, raspberry, and plum fruits, with great inner warmth and an architecture and saturation of perfume I haven’t found at the wines of this estate before. In weight terms, there is no great difference from the past: This is, as it always has been, ballerina-like red Burgundy. Can the wondrously delicate charm of this sample be bottled unbruised? 17