Alison Buchanan: This has a waxy, leesy nose with good mineral definition – rather restrained though. The palate presents an almost impenetrable wall of rocky minerality beyond which there are hints of lively fruit and smoky notes. This is polished, fresh and something of a thoroughbred – very fine. 16

Alex Hunt: Nicely poised, mineral nose. Taut acidity, understated fruit; a lean style, but stops short of being hard. Classic, pure seafood wine. 15

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Earth and underbrush, but also some appealing lemon-verbena. Complex. Vivid, rounded and full, with ripe acidity and good length. Not a lot of aromatic or flavor intricacy here, but delivers on all its promises. 14.5