Alison Buchanan: Rich yellow–gold, this has a very leesy/waxed nose. The palate is sublime, rich in citrus, orchard and exotic fruit, refreshed by a lovely minerality and acidity. Poised throughout and with real direction, this is a stunner, beautifully balanced. 17.5

Alex Hunt: Developed aromas, but still a mossy edge. Lean, actually quite elegant. A good Chablis–esque style, marred by a seam of sourness. 13

Andrew Jefford: Mid yellow–gold. Slightly eerie sweetness here; very sweet, almost sickly. The aromas are a big contrast with the sheerly acidic palate and its tart, sherbet–like finish. Already over the hill (though not yet tired: it just lacks central palate marrow). 11