Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, virtually opaque. Hints of herb on the nose, not very expressive. Chunky, complex palate, with very firm tannic structure and okay acid, lacking a bit of that sweet opulent fruit that some display but probably built to last longer. No great charm now, but check again in 2018. 17

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink, ruby rim. Closed, small, black-fruits nose, with smoke, cedarwood, and a touch vegetal. Full body, with big tannic structure well supported by the layered fruit. Long, with sweet fruit. A wine that needs time to come together. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Lots of fine cedar and cigar humidor aromas here—and frankly, a touch of menthol, too. Well, I never! On the palate, this is a deeply flavored wine and an impressive wine in many respects, but there is more of the cellar than the vineyard here for me. Early ripeness rather than full, generous ripeness; poised, brisk tannins; and supporting acidity rather than wide, thrusting, fruit-saturated acidity. I slightly distrust the menthol, but this is nonetheless ambitious and urbane and would work well in many contexts. 15