Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, a little off-bright. Subtle aromas hinting at fruit salad and undergrowth. Quite pronounced acidity on the palate, almost sour on the finish, which will keep it for some time—but does it have enough complexity to be worth the trip? Hiding now, typical Sangiovese for laying down. Firm tannins and twist of bitter. A complex wine waiting to come out. Drink from 2018. 16

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. Broad, but fairly dominated by the oak. Green, sharp palate fairly unbalanced. Need time, but the fruit may not be enough. 14

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red. Very attractive aromas of somber red and black fruits lent a little sweet amplitude from subtle oak; but the wine has quickly got over those primary stages and is now settling down into satisfying secondary complexities of coffee, tobacco leaf, plant sap, and humus. On the palate it is smooth, dry, long, with much of its complexity articulated around flavorladen acidity. Again, the fruit elements quickly subside into the complexities of forked earth and Havana leaf. Seamless and refined. 16.5