Nicolas Belfrage: Medium-deep, bright. Nose of plums and herbs. Fruit a little thin, without complexity to back it up. Good wine but not special. Drink from 2017. 15

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink; tawny rim. Mature nose, a touch dominated by the oak and some red fruit. Medium to full body, with clean red fruit, yet it is a touch green on the finish. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Warm fruits, with the emphasis on cherry; a touch of cade and resin behind. Touch reductive. Intriguing and beguiling. Smooth, soft, rich, open, and vivid fruits, yet the tannin support is firm, and there is some extractive depth, too. A well-crafted, very satisfying rendition in this fine vintage. The overall effect is fruity but secondary and savory, with both flavor themes amply evident in every mouthful: That’s Tuscan grandeur. Another wine about which I curse the necessity to spit... When Brunello is good, it is surely the perfect food red. 16.5