Jasper Morris: A little deeper in color than the 1988: full garnet. More fruit on the nose, albeit lean and tight at first. It is slightly metallic, offering some fruit but little joy. This fills out beautifully with time, however—still a bit strict behind but with a much more significant mouthful of fruit. Etienne notes that the ’89 was very reductive in youth—gamey, even. Perhaps that initial gaminess gives it character today.