Alison Buchanan: Pale yellow–gold, this is slightly volatile and very mineral on the nose. Rather lighter in color than many and relatively subtle on the nose, this is rather a wolf in sheep’s clothing. Powerful fruit and pure mineral layers vie for dominance, listed by fresh acidity. This is enormous and yet it bears its weight with comparative elegance. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Clean, direct and typical on the nose. Just rich enough to counter the grassiness, this is a pleasing middle-of-the-road Sancerre. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Pale gold. Rather dreary and dry, without the billowing aromatic power of the best. Does the business, but finishes a little short and tart. 10.5