Alex Hunt: Really good concentration, plumpness, texture—but far too evolved. This is the kind of plump, loose, clubbable style you’d expect for a wine à point at ten years old, not a wine just past its first birthday. Liable to deflate rapidly. 82

Andrew Jefford: Very deep black-purple—the darkest of its cohort. Some cherry fruit and a dusting of white pepper. There’s lots in here, and it’s lively, sweetcontoured, and gratifying, well up to the quality expectations of cru status. We’ve just tiptoed to the edge of ripeness here, but the wine has got there, and it’s vital, spicy, and long. 90

Peter Liem: This is dark and tannic, and almost chocolaty in its concentrated ripeness. It’s rather onedimensional on the palate, although its depth of flavor might come out further if it were paired with food. 84