Ella Lister: Like the 1995, this again has aromatic notes of slightly more toasted wood—sweet, with milk chocolate and caramel. Excellent body and freshness characterize the palate, which has everything you need, all well integrated. There is that same bright, intriguing, attentiongrabbing sour-fruit moreishness—so lively and persistent—that seems incredible at 20 years. Silky tannins.