Margaret Rand: An almost delicate nose with some floral notes; tight and closed, with plenty of acidity and smoke. There’s a lot of weight here, tucked away, from a rich year with a lot of botrytis and, indeed, a record quantity of aszú berries. Yet it’s already quite approachable now. There was a big difference between the 5 and 6 puttonyos this year, says Mészáros, and there may be more richness than structure here. It feels quite horizontal compared to the tensile verticality of most of the wines.