Margaret Rand: It was as hot and dry in Tokaj this year as anywhere else in Europe, and botrytis arrived late. The grapes picked in September were shriveled and were macerated in fermenting must; those picked in October had more botrytis and were macerated in finished wine. These variations add complexity, and the wine is fresher than one might expect from the year, dense and broad but not heavy, structured and firm: One imagines firm walls, a firm floor, a firm roof. And there’s a big, big finish.