Browning at the edge with a smoke and grilled-herb nose. Still vivid with red fruit, the wine seems to have more energy than the 1998 right now, and a layered finish. Sanders dubs this wine “harmony,” and I’d agree. It succeeded because of the effort behind it: 1999 was a warm, wet, unpredictable year, a struggle to pick before rot set in. For four years, starting in 1999, the estate underwent a complete renovation of winemaking facilities and the addition of many new small vats for more precise separation of grapes from different plots. And the château itself was restored to its 19th-century glory. | 89