From the heart of the Douro’s difficult plight with the scourge of phylloxera came this fine Port, from a vintage that was declared in celebration of Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. Light pink- tawny hue with clear rim. A bit earthy early on, with a wisp of baking spice and herbal essence as it unfurled, but it mostly remained reticent on the nose. Light-medium weight, yet rich and silky in its frame. Good acidity and subtly infused spicy red-fruit character. Nicely balanced, this 133-year-old has held up really well, given it was born during the latter vestige of the root louse. I liked the texture and intricately spiced, long finish,which offered hints of velvety caramel and layered complexity. | 90