In mid-January 1997, this is the Vintage Port, along with its sibling Fonseca, that created quite a stir when they were anointed “two perfect 1994 Ports” and rated 100 points by James Suckling as co-Wines of the Year on the cover of Wine Spectator. David Guimaraens, who created both in his inaugural vintage, became an instant superstar. A horse of another color, and the biggest and brightest young Port that we’ve had up to this point in the tasting. When time permits, I decant this between ten and 12 hours in advance, and my British Port-loving friends often go as far as 24 hours before drinking this babe in the woods.Big black brambly fruits, fig and some high-toned notes of lavender, fennel, and tar, plus a snippet of tapenade, emerge from the glass in a gloriousfruit-bomb, more than a quarter of a century since its birth. I should add that it required a significant amount of effort, swirling vigorously, as it’s still a very tight young beast of a Port. Juicy black plum, briary blackberry, mocha, and licorice flavors frame this wild stallion. Voluminous and densely packed, with smooth and approachable tannins that remain subservient to the fruit. Drink now if you dare, but it will certainly be better after the mid-point of this century and will likely surpass 2075—with ease! | 97+