Michael Steinberger: A savory and very enticing aroma here, with notes of dark fruit, black pepper, and earth showing, along with an intriguing citrus twist. A toothsome wine in which normally undesirable attributes—jammy fruit, low acidity—don’t seem to be a problem. There is an excellent saline mineral note across the palate, which helps, and for whatever reason, the wine exudes a sense of completeness and otherwise defies gravity. Seriously good stuff. A (19)