Michael Steinberger: A curious bouquet, with notes of black pepper, menthol, clove, and—oddly—some citrus. The palate is a surprise, too: it is cool, crisp, and chewy, without the lushness that seems to be Bonneau’s trademark. But it shows excellent depth and balance, and builds beautifully across the palate. A little attenuated on the finish, but otherwise it is a really impressive wine. A-/A (18.5)