Essi Avellan: Expressive white-fruit nose, with pear drops, orange blossom, and marmalade notes. Neat palate: ample fruit and balanced freshness. 87

Anthony Rose: Pale in color, with an intriguing nose of sweetness and spice, as if there’s a hint of oak; good, rich gooseberryish mousse with attractive flavors, nice juiciness of texture and attractive vinosity, finishing on a clean, dry tangy note. 88

Tom Stevenson: Rich and creamy, more Burgundian style. Lifted by a fine mousse. Long. 90