Essi Avellan: There is some complexity on the nose, with smoky and leesy layers. Highly acidic palate, with lean structure and sweet-and-sour sensations. Long, succulent, and brisk. 86

Anthony Rose: Pale lemony green in color, some intensity and crème fraîche freshness on the nose, with restrained bottle-developed notes, initial tartish malic bite on the tongue followed by persistent, clean, refreshing mousse etched with tangy streak that’s just about the right side of eyewatering. 89

Tom Stevenson: Long and linear in construction with an oakiness pervading the fruit. Some green touches. Acids out of balance. 74