Jesús Barquín: Deep golden, almost amber. Tight, muted nose, with aromas of hay and dry herbs. The palate is warm and kind, spirity but not hot. Correct finish. 88

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Not bad, but a touch of chocolate caramel on the nose slightly mitigates the yeasty pungency. On the palate, I am inclined to set this aromatic note aside as an anomaly, because the wine is dry, concentrated, pure, long, masterful, and in every way commanding. It is surely older, and from some special solera or source, as you won’t find yourself tossing this back but instead examining it in great detail—and yeasty, fungal, dried-flower detail there is. But you have to remember that it is not at all the primary youthful style, but instead mellow, rounded, and secondary, full of lingering fumositée. My score may seem almost mean for a wine of this depth, but I have to reflect the slightly disappointing aromatic profile in some way. 92

Peter Liem: This is broad and full in fragrance, with a mature flor character. While it feels ample and expressive, it’s impressively focused in structure, balancing all of its components with poise and grace. It’s long and expansive on the finish, anchored by a prominent salinity. 94