Jesús Barquín: Pale yellow, slightly cloudy. A touch less biologically marked than the previous one, but also more serious and settled, with lemony notes. Long, intense, very good Fino. 94

Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold. This is another en rama with frankly odd scents to begin with (Marmitey yeastiness, for UK readers). These seem to clear with some quite vigorous agitation, so perhaps it was some kind of reductive process at work. Nonetheless, this is still not the most attractive wine on the table. Some breadiness, but all a little bit muddled. Rather tired and open on the palate. The yeastiness still has a little of that Marmite (salted yeast extract) style. 79

Peter Liem: Lemony and saline, this is bold in fragrance, with a silky texture and focused length. It’s dominated by its flor notes, feeling savory and dark, and it persists on the palate with elegance and grace. 91