Jesús Barquín: Amber. The nose offers evident notes of orange peel and caramel, as well as a touch of incense—these reappear on the palate. Fresh and elegant, with more perceptible biological heritage in the mouthfeel (sleekness, finesse) than in the aromas. Long, inviting. 18

Andrew Jefford: A pale sandy orange in color. Correct in its aromatic allusions, but slightly hazy in style, with a vaguely disconcerting fattiness (lamb fat) that I’m not quite convinced should be there. As the nose suggested, this is quite weighty, heavy, and torpid in the context of this tasting; most of its peers are very nimble on their feet. Yet it’s clean and dry, with a penetrating aldehyde-acid edge underneath that haze. I’d still enjoy drinking it, but I can’t see it as one of the elite. 13

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber; lovely, aromatic, savory-nutty aromas; this wine sings from the glass. Elegant, almost dapper (I have never used that word to describe a wine before), with a powerful savory tang; great poise and direction here, from the aroma to the finish. Character and integrity in equal measure. 18