Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Burnished orange and caramel nose. Very sweet and viscous, this is heavy and lacking in freshness and bite. Thick and orangey, it has no Moscato finesse or charm. Fatiguing, with a cloying finish. 81

Andrew Jefford: Bright orange-gold. Slightly earthy-gluey in style, without a lot of focused aromatic lift. Tangy and rich, with all that Vidal generosity; the Moscato struggles a little to get its message across. Satisfactory, sound, salty-rich sweet wine. 85

Peter Liem: This thrives on its botrytized, late-harvested flavors, with notes of canned peach, litchi and poached pear. It’s kept lively by bright acidity, and it would be a harmonious match for a dessert that’s not too sweet. 83