Stephen Brook: Straw. Lively apple and apricot nose. Fresh, light, brisk, fairly simple, and lacks typicity. The acidity keeps it lively, but this is hard to recognize as Viognier, because it lacks lushness and hedonism. Precise but rather short. 13

Alex Hunt: Slightly evolved on the nose, but there are pure, vivid aromas here, with strawberries appearing among the usual suspects. The palate is fresh but somewhat muted—true to form but lacking immediacy. The balance is commendably even throughout, and there is an appealing textural bulge; I just wish the flavors were more intense. 14

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. A full, matronly aromatic profile, its cut peach decked out with a little soft spice and mushroom intrigue. On the palate, it is confectionary-like: sweet and simple, though toothsome. 12