Stephen Brook: This should have been the perfect occasion to test whether the 1983 is indeed superior to the 1982, but, sadly, the 1982 was an imperfect bottle. The color was deep and healthy, but the nose showed a mushroomy character and a slight mustiness. The palate had breadth, concentrated, spiciness, and firm tannins, but it was immediately evident that this was not the 1982 at its best; there was a rawness and a subdued character to the fruit and a general lack of zest. Moreover, the finish was rather dry. (When previously tasted, in 1998, I found the wine superior to any bottle of 1983 that I had encounteredby that time. That is not to say that were the two wines to be tasted side by side today, the same impression would be made.) 15