Stephen Brook: By a whisker, this was less evolved in color than the 1990. The nose was more voluptuous than on the 1990, with black fruits as well as cherries and a firm, oaky presence; yet it was poised and fragrant and in no way coarse or heavy-handed. On the palate the tannins were burly and slightly at war with the richness of fruit and the suppletexture. Perhaps it didn’t have the finesse of the 1990, yet the length was exceptional. At present, the two vintages seem to be level-pegging. It will be fascinating to taste them side by side in, say, eight years’ time. 18