Simon Field: Deep, near-mahogany color, mature nose that combines malt, orange peel, and white chocolate. Palate almost vinous, with firm acidity to balance the tamed sweetness. May soften and settle over time. 15.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep amber-tawny. Quite rich and pungent on the nose and palate, plenty of sweetness to the fruit, but retaining a hard tannic edge that manifests itself on the finish. Distinctly lacking in refinement. 12

Margaret Rand: Milk-chocolate nose; sleek chocolate palate, too. Elegant, fruity, and complex; very neat, compact and complete. 17.5