John Gilman: This weighs in at 13.7% ABV, which is plenty ripe, but the wine is impressively precise and pure for its octane. The deep and sappy nose offers up scents of sweet cassis, black cherries, gravelly soil tones, cigar smoke, a touch of violet, and a discreet framing of cedar. On the palate, the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex, and ripely tannic, with lovely balance, sound acids, and very good length and grip on the finish. It does not seem, at this early stage, to possess quite the same precision and mineral drive as the superb 2009, but it is very well balanced and pure and may blossom with extended bottle age. 2022–60. 16.5/17