Andrew Jefford: Deep ebony, with walnut rim. Syrup of raisins, black treacle, wax, mint, charred earth: lots of complexity, despite the power of the sugars. Deep, immensely sweet, but a wine in which the fresh fruit (and even, improbably, a floral charm) hasn’t been entirely forgotten. Behind that mass of barley-sugar richness, there is a grapey freshness and aromatic intricacy. The finish is majestic, too, with that charred-earth note bringing complexity and depth to all the pressed raisiny sweetness. There are some walnutty asperities, too, and a shake of salt. The flowers aren’t forgotten on the palate. Magnificent stuff 18.5

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque mahogany, with the thinnest olive-green rim; beautifully lifted and incredibly intense; rich and deep, with that gorgeous textural concentration and sweetness that somehow, amazingly, just stops short of cloying (unlike say, PX). Very impressive 18. Jancis Robinson: Very dark brown, with yellow rim. Light tangy, treacly nose. Very sweet and sticky indeed. Slightly low acid, but there is astringency on the finish to keep it lively. Syrup-of-figs style. Some drying quality on the end. Seems more sweet than alcoholic. Drink 1995–2015 18.