Andrew Jefford: Ebony with a walnut rim—not green. Rich, sweet, caramelly, and sun-burnished, over a barley-sugar core. Ginger after some time in the glass. Very attractive, though also very sweet. Weighty, tangy, long, powerful, and forthright. Hugely sweet, so I welcome the salty edges and the lash of leather and licorice. Long, complex finish, despite the volume of sugar 16

Richard Mayson: Very deep opaque mahogany, with the thinnest olive-green rim. I have never been a legs man, but just look at the legs here! Beautiful heaven-sent aromas; lifted yet intensely concentrated, essential; rich, rich, rich, and liquorous; wonderful textural complexity; intense yet somehow not too sweet. Still not quite a one-glass wine but very beautiful indeed.. 18.: Jancis Robinson: Blackish with a yellow rim. Floral, fresh aroma. Very old and rich and syrupy but with lovely roses and quite enough acidity —even almost painful to taste, thanks to the concentration. Very harmonious whole. Clean if not that persistent finish. Drink 2000–20 18.5: